![]() This type of solder wire does not produce any poisonous gases when you want to heat them. Since it has more than 90 tin material, it can provide an excellent lower melting temperature. Then how fast it needs to be going so you have a core concentration of pellets and whether a buffer is needed to help the shot flow through the choke better. 95/5 solder wires are mainly made of 95 tin and 5 antimony materials. What you need to worry about is the actual diameter of the shot and the wad thickness combination so you know if your gonna get 8 or 9 or 10 or 12 stacked in there. I'd have had the shot cast, peened, and graphited by now and probably done some of the initial test shooting. So your looking at example A and example B of "nearly" the same alloy. The lower Tin content will act as a grain refiner and it also allows the alloy to flow better in the mold The arsenic used in the dropped shot is a precipitator as well as a surface tensioner to make the shot round and also acts as a grain refiner to the alloy. If the shot is tower dropped it's bhn is similar to a cast projectile only you don't get good fill out with a cast projectile with just antimony alone. Same alloy, different bhn reading, depending on how the test piece was formed into shape. BTW the plumbing supply store gets approximately $25 a pound for the 97/3 solder which I figure is good for a decent amount of boolits.Their using antimony and arsenic to get the roundness.īuck-shot comes in nearly pure lead with arsenic, and 2% antimony with arsenic variety's.Īntimony alone in a lead alloy doesn't act the same as one with other constituents and it definitely does not show the same bhn reading when cast or swaged. I don't mind buying tin and doing so on line will undoubtedly happen one of these days but for now I'm just looking to see if I can use what I have found locally. In order to head off the inevitable suggestions of pewter, please keep in mind I wouldn't know real pewter if it ran up to me and smacked me in the kisser. So for those of you who have been doing this a lot longer than I my question is "will the copper work?" The last thing I want to do is to put this stuff into my melt and wind up with basically a ten pound doorstop, if need be I'll go back to Ace and let them whack me basically $40 per pound for tin for now. Small amounts of antimony (Sb) have been shown to improve the properties of tin-based solder. They had 97/3 solder but the 3% is copper not antimony. Since Ace REALLY likes that solder I was out cruising around town looking for a slightly less painful source of tin and stopped by a plumbing supply house. ![]() Soldering alloys are available in tin, lead, silver, copper, antimony and other. 95/5 is available in acid core, rosin core and solid wire versions. They are typically available in solid wire or cored with a rosin or acid flux. Common applications also include refrigeration lines and cooling equipment. It is NSF-listed for potable water applications. I picked up a roll of 95/5 (tin/antimony) solder at Ace last week and after adding 2% to my alloy I've got to say "I'm impressed." With its higher electrical conductivity and high fluidity, 95/5 is recommended for lead-free installation of small diameter, tight fitting connections. Oatey 95/5 Lead-Free Plumbing Wire Solder is a tin-antimony wire solder designed for use in plumbing applications where frequent and extreme temperature changes and vibrations occur. Having recently discovered the wonders of adding tin to COWW's I've also discovered that getting ones hands on tin of a known formula can be a bit on the spendy side.
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